Dior – Winter 2021

The idea that couture is itself a ceremony came from the master, some years ago. Christian Dior himself described the ceremonial entry of his models for each new look. A ritual that is still present today.

The uniforms with embroidery and embellishment that were shown and that are notably inspired by the Académie des Beaux-Arts offer a masculine interpretation of the couture. As we have seen in previous collections, decorations and motifs from the Dior archives were reinvented. Notably present were the covered buttons from the iconic Bar jacket and the gilded embroidery of rosella, an Haute Couture evening gown designed by Marc Bohan in the sixties.

Following the footsteps of Mr. Christian Dior, who translated dreams to reality, Kim Jones did the same by translating Peter Doig’s work into fashion. Jones, Doig, and the Dior ateliers collaborated intimately to realize this collection. Doig himself not only devised motifs, but worked on a selection of wool felt hats by Stephen Jones, adding captivating hand-painted designs inspired by his own work, memories, and connections with the House of Dior.

The dialogue between art and fashion was undoubtedly present. Two very straightforward examples were the animalistic emblems specially created by Peter Doig: a likeness of Christian Dior’s dog Bobby, and a lion that simultaneously recalls characters from Doig’s paintings and a masquerade costume made by Pierre Cardin for Christian Dior in 1949. This historic event echoes the steadfast friendships Mr. Dior had with artists like Jean Cocteau and Christian Bérard, a passion for art and artistry that the house has always cherished.

Jewelry and belts are also embellished with a lion figure sculpted by Doig. Fabrics recreate canvasses and etchings through intricate jacquards and prints. The night sky taken from Doig’s Milky Way (1990) constellates various looks. Fashion becomes a form of art.

The palette directly references Doig’s work: soft muted blues, navy, dusky mauve, and Dior gray appear alongside vibrant blood-orange, brilliant yellow, and green hues. Handcraft replicates brushstrokes through embroideries, knit, and hand-painting. Piping, bound trims, and baroque embroideries frame the garments as if they themselves were paintings. The shapes and forms of the collection become canvasses for art.

The collaboration between Kim Jones and Peter Doig was extended even to the décor of the digital show: the stage is an artwork. The installation, devised by Doig, featured stacked sound systems that are a reference in Doig’s paintings such as Speaker/Girl (2015).