Jan, 2021 | Fashion, Fashion Week, Paris

Loewe – Autumn 2021

by Juan De la Concha

Loewe’s designer Jonathan Anderson only needed a few months to adapt to the virtual format imposed by the pandemic, as he demonstrated in the new Loewe Men’s Autumn – Winter 2021 collection. Loaded with conceptualism and free of conceit, Anderson used his own experience and perspective to unveil the new story behind the show.

“I think there is a lot we can learn from this stage, especially the dialogue. In fashion we lacked conversation, a real and creative conversation about creations,”

– Jonathan Anderson

In the video that served to show the collection, the models appeared on an emergency staircase while Anderson narrated his desire of going back to doing a runway show but addressing that restrictions are good for creativity. This way he is able to talk to people and people get to know him better. Before everything was about the front row of the show, now that piece is missing, there are no celebrities, no influencers to distract the attention from what really matters in a show: the collection.

The creator paid tribute to artist Joe Brainard, whose work on collages and book designs were captured in prints and jacquards that decorated clothing and accessories. Also, the most iconic subcultures of the last 50 years were mixed in the garments with striped sweaters inspired by the “grunge” movement, “wallabee” shoes of the rave culture and their immense pants, the woolly fur coat of the hippies, or the pants of leather, decorated with endless belts, from the punk universe.

On the inspiration of this subversive culture that permeates the collection, Anderson explained that it was not about nostalgia but about learning from the past and being curious. These moments in history transformed anger into creativity.

The camel cashmere coat, an icon of the feminine wardrobe, becomes a structured skirt-bermuda, the trenchcoat is recovered in a more angular silhouette, marked on the shoulders and flowing in its fall, and the cardigans are combined with trousers. The Brainard prints give life to the collection, adding contrasting vibrant colors where the great classics like navy blue, beige, and black prevailed.

Our attention was drawn to a series of t-shirts and sweaters that were tripled: one shirt had another two sewn on the front as if they were multiplying, a tribute also to the pictorial assemblages of the New York artist. Triangular shaped pants that become two rectangles when opened. We loved the idea of pants that become a show piece.

Speaking about accessories, Anderson gave us new and interesting options, such as the “Chelsea” type ankle boots, suede laced shoes, and bags that were rejuvenated with Brainard’s collages.

For the presentation, Loewe edited a 200-page hardcover book dedicated to Brainard’s work and also showed part of its Eye / Loewe / Nature collection, focused on patchwork patterns, recycling, and playing with different styles.