Oct, 2020 | Fashion, Fashion Week, Milan

Fendi – Spring 2021

by Juan De la Concha

Looking out the window has become the norm to see the world move throughout these strange times. Memories of freedom and how we used to be, flood the conversations inside the houses where, more than ever, families gather together to socialize.

Inside / Outside. The only thing separating us from reality are these windows, prisms that project lights and shadows that dance during the day. These abstract elements are the main inspiration behind the new Fendi SS21 collection.

Linen and cotton, flowing like curtains give the collection a homy vibe. The palette is predominantly neutral, with white and beige tones taking centerstage. The shades of wheat, milk and honey are juxtaposed amidst reflections of sky blue and cardinal red, as cinematic black and white shine like spotlights cast on cloth. Windows – metaphorical and physical – are a leitmotif impressed upon garments in a game of transparency and texture throughout.

This is a very intimate and stripped-down take on Fendi. From boutis satin quilting to the linear encrustations of jour d’echelle ladder-work and flourishes of ajouré flowers that expose skin to create layers of light and shade.

Formal structures are softened – coat backs and shirt sleeves unbutton, tailored details are ‘debossed’ in trompe l’oeil knitwear, and embroidered house coats and flared tunics elevate the comforts of home. Lightness and depth intermingle in faded flora print linens and latticework furs, or the intricate workmanship of apron dresses in silk duchesse, embroidered tulle and gazar.

The accessories play with construction and embellishment to conceal and reveal. Woven textures abound market baskets in recycled PVC, stretch lattice frame totes, picnic baskets and canvas luggage are pragmatic and light-hearted solutions for daily life. Also, they perfectly represent the craft ans detail that Fendi is known for; The ‘hand in hand’ Baguette project celebrates a unique collaboration with local artisans across Italy, including the Abruzzo and Marche regions shown on the runway. Handcrafted in Abruzzo, a sheer Baguette is constructed in tombolo aquilano sugar-coated lace, a technique refined by Benedictine nuns since the 15^th century. From Marche, a structured Baguette woven in strands of natural willow is inspired by the baskets of local fishermen.

Perhaps this is Silvia Venturini Fendi’s way of going back to basics and reflecting on new beginnings. With Kim Jones taking the reign of the Roman fashion house next season, this collection metaphorically works as a new canvas, blank but loaded with meaning and tradition.